(Hualien, Taiwan)
A professor of international diplomacy at Chengchi University made an interesting claim. He believes that Beijing tacitly approves of North Korea’s actions and refrained from restraining the North Koreans. The strategic purpose would be to use North Korea in exchange for concessions from the US over Taiwan. I am not sure if I buy this, but its interesting nonetheless.

(Taipei, Taiwan)

We visited both the Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) and the ruling Kuomingtang (KMT) party to meet with legislators from both parties. While the biggest difference between both parties lies in their attitude towards the mainland, this difference appears to be more about semantics and means rather than ends. Neither party wants unification – the question is how to preserve Taiwan’s independence.

(Danshui, Taiwan)

The DPP believes that de jure independence, recognized by international law, is essential for long-term security. The KMT believes that this is unrealistic, and prefers the de facto independence Taiwan already enjoys. KMT Legislator Wu Yu Sheng, whom we visited, talked about possible reunification if the mainland meets certain standards. However, those conditions (as democratic and prosperous as the US) seem to be so far-fetched as to function only as a delaying technique rather than a possible roadmap. And many Taiwanese say “if China really fulfills them, why not?”

While KMT legislator Wu Yu Sheng appeared upbeat about the “benevolence” of Beijing, my guess is that the KMT strategy is to have it both ways. Pursue closer economic ties with Beijing while strengthening its US ties and buying weapons to safeguard the island in a worst case scenario.

(Taipei, Taiwan)

While we were productive in our meetings with scholars and politicians in Taiwan, we were also equally productive in conquering the night markets and delicious restaurants of Taipei. The food was bountiful and delicious, possibly a tribute to their fertile land, incredible creativity of the Taiwanese, and the mixing of cultures that take place here. After a night at Shilin, my American classmate Jessica remarked that in Asia, if you follow everyone else, you will always find good food; whereas in the US, if you do so, you end up with mediocre food. Perhaps that is why Asian cultures are collectivistic?

(Hsinchu, Taiwan)

Listed below is a list of food to die for in Taipei, prepared by a friend of a friend (Gunther). Gunther says this of the friend: “she will boil a whole chicken just to get chicken broth…that’s how you know she knows her food.”

Tripod King 鼎王麻辣鍋
http://www.tripodking.com.tw/
Chinese hot pot in a classic setting. Try the iced plum juice to
soothe your burning tongues.
**NEED TO BOOK 1MONTH IN ADVANCE, AND YOU ONLY CAN EAT FOR 90 MIN**
Hot Stuff!

Yu’s Almond Tofu
Just next time, in case you still have appetite

SOAK

Best hot spring house in town (30-45 min by cab)
http://www.villa32.com/

CASUAL EAT/SHOP

Night Markets
http://www.thingsasian.com/stories-photos/1547
http://www.go2taiwan.net/product.php?pid_for_show=19
http://taipeitravel.net/article.asp?pcode=2&indexId=46&mrtId=-1&uId=2803&pageNo=1

Old School Beef Noodle - 老董牛肉細粉
http://www.olddon.com.tw/
Many many more beefy places to go:
http://www.amcham.com.tw/publication_topics_view.php?volume=38&vol_num=1&topics_id=1023

Yongkong Street - 永康街 *** MUST TRY for their 葱油饼， 刀削面， 肉丸， 胡椒饼
http://philip.pristine.net/maps/photomap.py?username=Danburg%20Murmur&set_name=Taipei%3A%20Yongkang%20Street%20(%E5%8F%B0%E5%8C%97%3A%20%E6%B0%B8%E5%BA%B7%E8%A1%97)

Heart of old Taipei residential district - walk around for many many
cafes, chinese tea shops, boutiques and dessert booths.

Bubble Tea Galore - 春水堂
http://www.icetea.com.tw/
Bubble tea house chain w/ nice atmosphere and huge selection of “small eats.”

Crazy shaved ice & taro/jelly tapioca desserts w/ condensed milk - 鮮芋仙
**** MUST TRY
http://www.meetfresh.com.tw/
Ask your concierge for the nearest chain near you.

Wonderful simple local Taiwanese fare - 欣葉台菜本店
www.shinyeh.com.tw/

Wisteria House - 紫藤廬
http://wistariahouse.com/English/index1.html
A salon/teahouse for artists and speakers.

SPOT Taipei Film House 台北之家 (光點台北)
http://www.spot.org.tw/index_e.htm
Made over from the ex-US embassy. One of my favorite spots in Taipei -
for Tea & Movie.

Eslite
http://www.time.com/time/asia/2004/boa/boa_mind_bookstore.html
24-hr artsy fartsy bookstore.

Xingyi District (where Taipei 101 is)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xinyi_District

SIT-DOWN DINING - tourist traps which are still worth trying

Din Tai Fung Shanghainese Soupy Dumplings *** MUST TRY
http://www.dintaifung.com.tw/ch/index.asp

台南度小月擔仔麵
http://www.iddi.com.tw/
Traditional Southern Taiwanese noodles

AOBA 青葉
http://www.aoba.com.tw/
Upscale version of street eats in restaurant setting.

People Cuisine Creative
http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/feat/archives/2002/02/08/123297
Fusion Taiwanese/Chinese/Japanese/Western w/ interesting ambiance. To
get in, remember to stick your hand beneath a rock sensor.

YUMMY JAPANESE - that I would go to

牛壽司
ADD：台北市中山區新生北路1段150號
TEL：02-2542-9978
Pricey Japanese Sushi w/ izakaya atmosphere. Need to reserve, ask your
concierge.

Japanese Shabu-Shabu
橘色涮涮屋
http://www.taiwanfun.com/north/taipei/dining/0705/0705Oshabu.htm

Japanese Yakitori
胡同燒肉夜食
http://www.hutong.com.tw/

MORE EATS
http://www.taiwanfun.com/north/taipei/dining/index.htm

(Taipei, Taiwan)

(Hualien, Taiwan)

While most people are familiar with the miracle of Taiwan’s rapid economic growth, fewer are aware of how Taiwan achieved this growth while maintaining low income inequality. Professor Chuang Yi Chyi from the economics department at Chengchi University attributed this largely to land redistribution by the KMT in the 40s and 50s. He also cited how Taiwan’s dependence on labor intensive industries and small and medium enterprises (SME) played a part.

(Hsinchu, Taiwan)

What caught my attention was a chart comparing income inequality with selected countries – including Singapore’s. Singapore’s income inequality (as measured using a deciles system) shows Singapore’s income inequality skyrocketing over the past eight years.* I do not know how such drastic changes in income distribution could have come about in Singapore over such a short period. My guess is that instead of a change in income levels between the pre-2001 top fifth and bottom fifth, Singapore might have experienced an influx of wealthy immigrants.

Another interesting point by the Prof. Chuang was how Taiwan tries to overcome the lack of R&D by SMEs through a national technology agency to promote technology transfer and development. His view is that the tradeoff between a Korean model (big firms with massive R&D) and Taiwanese model is that the lower R&D investment in Taiwan comes with faster commercialization and diffused innovation as technology flows rapidly between the many of firms populating the island.

*The measure, compiled by the Taiwanese government, compared the income of the top fifth against the bottom fifth in some Asian countries including Singapore, Taiwan and Hong Kong. While all of them trended upwards towards more inequality, in Singapore, the change was drastic.

**Also check out my “Taiwan Food to DIE for List”

(Taipei, Taiwan)

I had a series of meetings with Taiwanese professors which provided me with their insights into Taiwan’s history and society. Something interesting I noted was how a significant number of politicians were former academics, something less seen in other Asian countries. I wonder why?

(Taipei, Taiwan)

On the first day of our program, we met with four professors who gave an extensive overview of Taiwanese history, economy and society. Chen Wen Xian, a history professor at Chengchi University, revealed that the KMT migration from the mainland brought with them 2 million people (外省)to add to the existing 9 million people living on Taiwan (父老). I did not realize that the “mainlanders” were so vastly outnumbered. This migration still has its echoes in modern Taiwanese politics and conflicts over self-identity: political affiliation is largely linked with personal identity, and controversies occasionally erupt over attempts to define the “outsiders” who migrated with the KMT from the “truly local.”

(Taipei, Taiwan)

I can see why some people are underwhelmed by Taipei’s architecture on their first trip. Unlike Hong Kong, it isn’t a metropolis teeming with skyscrapers. Instead, it seems like something in between a town and a city, with a mix of some modern buildings alongside small unimpressive shophouses.

(Taipei, Taiwan)

I wondered about this for a long time. The driver who fetched us from the airport answered that Taiwan is more democratic and land rights are better protected. Hence, it is harder for the government to snatch land for massive urban renewal.

(Hua Lien, Taiwan)

I recently went to Taiwan on a trip sponsored by IUP, Chengchi University and the Taiwan Foreign Ministry. The purpose of the trip was to introduce us to Taiwan and to facilitate research collaboration by connecting us with Chinese scholars.

I chose to meet with some professors in the international management/ organizational behavior field to understand the management research agenda in Asia as well as to understand how Asian scholars integrate history and culture into the social sciences methodology used in management research.

(Hua Lien, Taiwan)

This being the third time I have been in Taiwan, it was nice to catch up with everyone and see how people have changed over the last couple of years. Time flies by…

(Da Zhai, China)

It is hard not to feel a sense of irony at the heavily commercialized entrance to Dazhai. Peddlers were selling all sorts of Maoist memorabilia and “real” Dazhai residents offered tours. I made my way to the museum on the mountain behind Dazhai commemorating Dazhai and Chen Yonggui, the leader of the village who was made a vice-Premier by Mao Zedong. I am unsure what connection Dazhai has to Penguins but Penguins populated the entrance to the museum.

(Da Zhai, China)

There was a special exhibit that spoke positively about the Cultural Revolution and how intellectuals “volunteered” to go to the villages to “fulfill the life-long dream to learn with the villagers.” the exhibit whitewashed the Revolution, putting a positive spin on this aspect of Maoist legacy, and I wonder if most of the Chinese countryside and smaller cities still hold such hazily warm memories of Maoist years.

(Xi Yang, China)

After bargaining with drivers all morning, I found out that the cheapest way to Dazhai was to hop onto a train (7 Yuan) to Xi Yang and take a bus from there to Dazhai. I did just that and I was glad to drop by Xi Yang, which proved to be a pleasant surprise. It is a small dusty town backed against a hill. At the top of the hill, the buildings looked as if they were from a movie set in 1940s Shanghai. There was a PLA military training center there too.

(Xi Yang, China)

(Xi Yang, China)

The tallest building in town was 3 stories high at most, except for a giant 20-story multiplex standing ominously in the middle of the town. It had glass windows and a modern style that jarred with its surroundings. This is the local communist party office – I bet the building could fit the entire town residents in it comfortably.

(Yang Quan, China) At a friend’s place

I arrived at Yang Quan at 10pm. Tired and still unsure of how to reach Da Zhai, I decided to spend the night in the town. I asked a passerby for directions and we struck up a conversation. Eventually, I accepted the stranger’s offer to stay over at his house. In exchange, I helped him translate a blog entry of his into English. In his house, a big poster of Mao watches over the house and an amulet of Zhou Enlai wards off danger. I asked my acquaintance about it. He shrugged nonchalantly and said his mother loves Mao. He cannot understand why.

I loved the euphemisms used to describe entertainment venues in China. Walking by a place with music blaring, I tried to see what the racket was about when someone stopped me. “What’s beyond?” The person replied, “歌厅” or music hall. It’s definitely a music place - prostitutes included. A 茶馆 in Yang Quan means a mahjong hall and the blind masseuse I saw advertised definitely was not a blind masseuse. I demand a refund.

As I left the city, I saw an area with nice shiny apartments. I asked my acquaintance who lived there (not wishing to add that the town was quite a dump) and he said “no one.” I cannot think of a better metaphor for the Chinese property bubble then a third-tier city with swanky new apartments.